Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo secret watch.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Very much in vogue in the 1930s, 40s and 50s, secret watches were so named because they kept their status as timekeepers confidential by hiding their dials behind decorative covers. Back in the day it was considered inappropriate for a lady to wear a timepiece with formal wear. Thus the secret watch, which looked much like any other dressy bracelet when closed, was born. Doing double duty, the usually gem-set cover also served as the perfect crystal protector, keeping it pristine and scratch free.
While women can wear just about anything they want wherever they want these days, I find the secret watch to be a seductive anachronism that regularly reasserts itself with lovely new models from a variety of brands. Van Cleef & Arpels, as an example, introduced some exquisite variations at Watches and Wonders in Geneva earlier this year. Perfect for day or evening, dressed up or more casual, these quartz timepieces prove that keeping secrets can be a very good thing.
Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret Collection
Ludo secret watch, closed.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels imbues its timepieces with inventiveness and fantasy, and this year’s Ludo Secret collection builds on the tradition of mystery so important to the Maison’s poetic vision. Each of the watch dials is creatively hidden, allowing the wearer to observe the time with discretion.
The two just-introduced high jewelry timepieces are based on one of Van Cleef & Arpels signature pieces: the Ludo bracelet, which was created in 1934 and named after Louis Arpels, one of the company’s founders. The Ludo bracelet in turn links the Maison with fashion, since it is inspired by a belt.
In a new size and with two combinations of materials, the Ludo Secret creations bring together rose gold, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds or pink sapphires. The Van Cleef & Arpels renowned expertise in stone setting is evident in its pairing of diamonds of similar brilliance and pink sapphires of like intensity. The brick-pattern bracelet features mesh links hand assembled for maximum articulation and flexibility.
Ludo Secret Emerald Mystery Set Watch
The company is also debuting the Ludo Secret Emerald Mystery Set watch inspired by the 1941 Ludo Hexagone Macaron secret watch, wherein the dial is concealed behind a design embellished with Mystery Set stones. Mystery setting is a métier d’art within the Maison’s extensive repertoire of high-jewelry techniques. It does not rely upon traditional prongs to hold the stones in place; rather, each stone is set on nearly imperceptible gold rails less than 0.2m thick. The end result is a motif of gemstones that appears to be magically held in place, with no visible rails. The watch’s yellow gold bracelet comprises a meshwork of yellow-gold hexagons, perfectly punctuated with star-set emeralds.
Perlée Pendant Secret Watches
Finally, six Perlée pendant secret watches inspired by the pocket watches of 17th-century Europe are making their debut in yellow, white or rose gold. Worn on a long necklace, the time may be discreetly checked by rotating the decorative cover to reveal the expertly polished white mother-of-pearl dial.
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