No roads, no phones, no problem. You can still get up close and personal with one of Australia’s most remote attractions.
5 things every Aussie traveller must do in their lifetime
Broome’s history is of course steeped in stories of pearl diving, of luggers and pearl masters. It was the largest pearling port in the world after pearls and their shells were discovered back in the 1880s. And its history, often horrific, has shaped the town that stands today.
It’s also the gateway to the incredible Kimberley – one of the world’s great wilderness areas. During the winter months, tourists flock to this remote Western Australian town and use it as a base to explore the surrounding rugged landscapes, when the heat is dryer and the rains are at bay.
I’m here to see one of the biggest drawcards of the Kimberley – the Horizontal Falls. Picture: Supplied.
I’m here to see one of the biggest drawcards of the Kimberley – the Horizontal Falls. Known as the “Horries” to the locals, it’s a rare natural phenomenon where extreme tides force huge volumes of water through two narrow gaps, creating the illusion of a waterfall that is flowing horizontally.
It can only be accessed by air or boat and Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures has just released a brand-new overnight experience on a refurbished luxury houseboat, Jetwave Pearl (you see the theme here), that promises a wild 24 hours of choppers, jet boats and croc spotting.
Departing Broome, we check into the hangar with just 5kg of luggage each. Every passenger is then asked to step on a set of scales, so there’s no lying about your weight here. A roar of the props and we take off on our 90-minute scenic seaplane flight.
A roar of the props and we take off on our 90-minute scenic seaplane flight. Picture: Supplied.
The landscape below us changes from the flats of the Dampier Peninsula to the expanse of King Sound, surrounded by rugged mountain ranges, before we get our first glimpse of the Horries, followed by a spectacular sea landing on the blue waters of Talbot Bay.
The soaring sandstone McLarty Ranges tower around us, their orange colour filled with cracks and patterns formed over thousands of years. Their beauty is astonishing, the silence of this natural wonder is made even better by the fact there’s no phone reception.
It’s all systems go once we step onto the floating pontoon. Our own private speedboat, named Full Throttle (a sign of things to come), takes us to Jetwave Pearl in her exclusive anchorage around the corner. The shining white houseboat has just undergone a massive refurb, with 10 rooms sleeping up to 20 guests – a more luxurious offering than the current beds found on the arrival pontoon.
Jetwave Pearl, the shining white houseboat, has just undergone a massive refurb. Picture: Supplied.
A gleaming helicopter sits on the attached launch pad. We don our sunglasses in true rock star style for a 10-minute scenic ride over the Horries and nearby waterways. It’s an open-door chopper and my stomach lurches at take-off. The views are even better than from the seaplane and we clutch our phones for dear life, weighing up the right time for a photo opp.
Back at Jetwave Pearl morning tea is served between chopper rides, then it’s life jackets on aboard Full Throttle for a ride through the Horizontal Falls. A whirlpool of water circulates wildly between the 20m gap as the jet boat navigates its way through with 300HP engines to help. It’s a quick rush before we’re through to the other side.
Lunch of locally caught barra back at Jetwave Pearl is followed by a cruise through the surrounding creek system and the opportunity to throw a line in, or spot a crocodile. For those feeling brave, there’s a stop at the pontoon to swim with the local tawny nurse sharks. Don’t be fooled by the Kimberley’s beauty – its waters are deadly.
For those feeling brave, there’s a stop at the pontoon to swim with the local tawny nurse sharks. Picture: Supplied.
The beauty of spending the night on the houseboat is felt magically at dusk, when the last of the sun glows against the sandstone cliffs until it’s just you and the stars.
A private chef ensures no one goes to bed hungry. Eye fillet followed by a chocolate fondant sends us into a food coma before we retreat to our cabins.
When I wake up, the houseboat windows perfectly frame the setting, the carpet a swirl of greens, browns and beige designed to represent the view we had a day earlier from above. After an early cooked breakfast, we’re whisked back to Broome on the seaplane, landing conveniently in time for the opening of the local pearl shops.
The writer was a guest of Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures.
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