Early morning in the rugged upper reaches of the River Tees, and this part of the North Pennines was at its finest: the babble of glinting water over stones beneath a cloudless sky, and the cry of lapwings overhead. The way downriver was deserted apart from a few Swaledale ewes and their lambs who came to have a look.
This stretch of Upper Teesdale, wild and treeless, was new to me, but the Tees has always had a place in my life. My mother was born to the north in Co Durham, while my father came from ten miles south of the river in North Yorkshire. My grandparents were married in nearby Bishop Auckland during the First World War when my grandfather returned from northern France. And I grew up in a market town south of the Tees before I left for university and then the world of work more than 30 years ago. So, even when the paths were unfamiliar, this felt like a return to home soil and waters.
The Tees is 85 miles long from source to sea, rising high in the North Pennines above the start of my two-day walk. Its lower stretches, where it broadens and passes what remains of heavy industry and the harsher urban landscapes of Teesside before reaching the North Sea, may be better known, but if the Tees makes you think only of derelict steelworks or chemical plants then you should look again.
I joined the trail at Langdon Beck after a night at the remote but friendly hotel there, where the glorious view from my room was towards a rocky outcrop called Cronkley Scar. With The Teesdale Way by Martin Collins, OS Landranger Map 92 and Maui, my little dog, as walking companion, we set out across the open moorland.
High Force is England’s highest waterfall
ALAMY
After an hour or so I heard High Force before I saw it. Here, the Tees narrows and drops vertically between jagged rocks, a roaring cascade of white water tinged by peat. I was last here when I was six or seven years old on a day trip with elderly aunts, and the thrill of its sight, sound and power came back to me.
Beyond the smaller Low Force, a short way further on, the desolate landscape gradually softened. The bleak hill farms were left behind and the path weaved through woodland, alive with spring flowers, and grassy fields. I crossed the river on a footbridge, passed through busy, pretty Middleton-in-Teesdale, and met a friend who lives nearby for his birthday lunch. Here, the Pennine Way branches off to the south, while the Teesdale Way continues southeastwards.
Next came my favourite village — handsome Romaldkirk, on the southern bank, complete with the ancient parish church of St Romald, plus two nice-looking pubs and three village greens.
By early evening I reached Barnard Castle, the fine Co Durham market town with its medieval ruin and views of the Tees below. It was once home to Richard III, and plaques told of visits by Charles Dickens, while researching Nicholas Nickleby, and Oliver Cromwell. More recently, “Barney”, as it is known locally, became a footnote in political history when the Downing Street adviser Dominic Cummings travelled here during a Covid lockdown. Footsore, I found a seat in a lively old bar that served a beer called Cummings and Goings.
The next morning I could only gaze at the magnificent Bowes Museum on the edge of the town, a cultural gem of the north, but I will return soon without the dog to explore its highly praised art collection.
Instead, I continued downriver, with the meandering Tees now on the right down a steep escarpment. Maui happily rolled in every pile of sheep muck she could find and tried to chase squirrels and rabbits. A few fly fishermen were out in their waders waiting for trout or grayling.
On the opposite bank to the ruins of the 12th-century Egglestone Abbey, I finally launched in for a quick dip. Despite the chill, it had to be done.
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Further on, past Darlington, the Teesdale Way stretches to the sea through the very different environments of Stockton-on-Tees and then Middlesbrough. There it passes the iconic Transporter Bridge and the Riverside Stadium, home to the greatest football club of them all — Middlesbrough FC.
That is for my next visit. This time I finished at Piercebridge, site of an excavated Roman fort which was once a stop along Dere Street, the Roman road going north to Scotland and south to York. I rested in the George pub beside the Tees after what felt less like two days of hard slog with a dog and more like an eye-opening return home.
James Helm travelled independently
Four Teesdale bolt holes
1. Langdon Beck Hotel, Forest-in-Teesdale
Located in a remote spot in the North Pennines, this hotel has a friendly vibe and is popular with fellow walkers. Rooms are comfortable and spacious, the food is hearty and to drink there is excellent Wainwright beer.
Details B&B doubles from £119 (01833 622267)
2. Old Well Inn, Barnard Castle
This inn, dating back to the 12th century, is right in the heart of historic Barnard Castle. Expect good-sized rooms, cosy furnishings and a fine range of cask ales. The evening menu has authentic Indian curries, plus the usual pub grub, and in the morning your breakfast is a full English.
Details B&B doubles from £70 (theoldwellinn.co.uk)
3. The Devonport, Middleton One Row
The 18th-century Devonport, right on the village green and overlooking the banks of the Tees, is the perfect place to eat, drink and rest up for the walk to come (or just done). It has nine modern rooms and six apartments, some of which are dog-friendly. Darlington is close by for rail links.
Details B&B doubles from £110 (thedevonport.com)
4. Houndgate Townhouse, Darlington
This beautifully restored 18th-century townhouse is just a ten-minute walk from the train station. Inside are eight boutique-style rooms — book the George Stephenson for its free-standing bath. Saltfish, the hotel’s restaurant, serves fresh seafood and organic wines.
Details B&B doubles from £110 (houndgatetownhouse.co.uk)
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