Sydney omakase restaurant Kappo by Kuon relaunches as Sushi Sei

The relaunch of Sydney omakase restaurant Kappo by Kuon as the more casual Sushi Sei isn’t a death knell for expensive pint-sized “leave-it-to-the-chef” restaurants. But it could be part of a correction in the exploding market segment.

Kappo by Kuon owner Kenny Lee concedes demand has slowed slightly since the heady days when post-lockdown Sydneysiders splurged at omakase venues with as few as six seats and double-figure courses dictated by chefs focused on high-end produce and prices.

Willoughby omakase Hachioji has announced it will close in June, while Gaku, in Darlinghurst, trumpeted on social media that it will end its “kaiseki-style omakase” in May, but the restaurant will remain open.

A local pioneer of the genre, Lee has multiple omakase venues, including Irori Kuon, near Kappo at Darling Square. This week he will relaunch Kappo as Sushi Sei, which he says will give diners more flexibility. They’ll still be able to order an omakase-sized meal, but the minimum spend will be only $35, opening it up to more casual clientele.

Lee remains bullish on the future of omakase restaurants in locations with less competition. In August, he’ll open 10-seat Tsuzumi at Barangaroo.

Joel Best, co-owner of Circular Quay omakase Besuto, agrees there has been a slowing in demand, but argues it is being felt industry-wide.

“There’s the economy, interest rates and Japan reopening,” Best says. But it won’t derail his plans to add an omakase to Bar Besuto, the Japanese whisky bar he’s opening at Sydney Place in June. Best’s yet-to-be-named omakase is one of three set to open at the northern end of the city in coming months.