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This is from the pages of Issue 590 which is on stands now, available for purchase online or click here to find sub options and read more features like this on Tracks Premium.
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Growing up in Lennox Head, the Ballina tip shop has always been a place of possibility. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, right? Everyone knows the saying is propaganda, until it’s true.
I was sorting through trash at the Brunswick Old and Gold garage sale weekend when I first laid eyes on the board. ‘Old andGold’ was about right. There was some-thing about the rolled bottom that caught my imagination. A Band-Aid stuck on the side read $150. Sold. Worth every cent but needs some work that’s for sure.Before I know it I’m down in the glassing room with Richard Smith, local Lennox glasser, for some serious restoration. He gave the board its new gloss coat and sanded down the fin. We laughed at how far surfboards have come, and for good reason Richard said, “You’ll surf it, and you’ll hate it.” The challenges of the Peter Clark have become some of the things I like most about it. The board’s unpredictability adds excitement and in head high waves, it flies.The bucking bronco beneath my feet serves as a good reminder of surfing’s pioneers.
In the water, the first challenging aspect about the board was paddling on to waves, the board would push water forward asI would hesitate. I chose to go for bigger waves thinking the board would be slow.After a few waves I learnt commitment was key. With speed, the board would pop and start flying down the line, each wave a token for my restoration dream.
The recent few swells my feet have been glued to Clark, imagining the uncrowded days and hollow waves this board was made for. That is the magic of old boards, imagining the hundreds, perhaps thousands of incredible moments that the board has had and places it has been.
With no legrope, I’m forced to hold on or swim. Boards have changed, but the thrill seeking nature of shapers and surfers remain.The Clarke has surfed waves for the past 50 years and it’s clear it isn’t over surfing yet.