A new book by award-winning journalist David Jesudason, to be published by CAMRA tomorrow (18th June) shines a light on Britain’s many Desi pubs.
The book is the first of its kind. It details David’s travels across country, featuring more than 60 Desi pubs in detail. These are run by British-Indian landlords who have stamped their unique identity on a beloved institution and changed preconceptions of the publican.
The Desi pub began as a story of resistance. Established in the 1960s to break the racist colour bar, which saw many non-white customers refused service, they have since evolved into a modern-day celebration of multiculturalism.
This is how Desis — people with Indian heritage — saved failing pubs and turned them into a joyful festival of mixed grills, naans, and curries, all washed down with plenty of beer.
“Desi pubs show what we can achieve when we take on prejudice and fuse the best of two cultures, in this case British and Indian,” said David.
“They also illustrate how we can then successfully — and with little conflict — navigate a post-racism world. This book reflects the stories behind this new beginning, as well as being a guide to the most diverse places to drink pints and eat sizzling platters.”
Or, as Harry Mungali, in the Black Horse, Hounslow, West London, said: “You don’t want this to be a posh Egon Ronay guide. This has to be David Jesudason’s best Desi Pubs.”
“Let’s hope I’ve not let Harry down,” said David. “What amazed me about my journey is I discovered the pubs I visited were as much loved by white customers, and these people deserve as much praise as the British-Indian drinkers and landlords.
“They saw their areas change, and instead of railing against multiculturalism, they embraced how their pubs became true community hubs. Yes, they love their mixed grills, but they’re also the vanguard of diversity and are totally under-celebrated by the media. Until now.”
To celebrate the release of Desi, Pubs, David will be holding an event on 1st June at The Gladstone pub in Southwark, one of the venues featured in the book. Places for the event are very limited. This will also seee the launch of Meantime Brewing Company’s specially brewed beer, Desi Pale Ale.
Meantime brewer Nidhi Sharma describes Desi Pale Ale as having a strong base of mango and guava fruit notes, with a subtle coriander spice. Turmeric and bay leaves were added in the boil with Willamette hops, to give pleasantly peppery notes.
• The book can be purchased here.