How to do the greatest road trip in Australia

Modern Australia owes much to ambitious engineering projects such as the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Adelaide to Darwin railway, but none has the emotional resonance of Victoria’s Great Ocean Road.

The first, and most treacherous section, of this iconic road was built by Australian soldiers newly returned from the trenches of the First World War, using nothing more than picks and shovels, and sleeping under canvas. At one stage 3,000 ex-servicemen, some still badly shaken by their wartime experiences, were employed in this herculean effort. Some died, many were injured. Completed in 1932 the Great Ocean Road was quickly dubbed “the world’s largest war memorial” – a badge of honour that it continues to wear with pride.

What began as a work-creation scheme – Australia had 350,000 men serving overseas at the end of the war – soon transformed the fate of the scattered communities along this storm-battered coast. Within a few years places like Torquay, Lorne and Apollo Bay became holiday haunts for wealthy Melburnians who enjoyed fresh sea air, ocean swimming and wrestling a car along a narrow road that was literally carved into high sea cliffs.

Today’s road is naturally wider, smoother and safer than the original track, but the sheer audacity of the project is still impressive as you glide past flawless beaches, ancient rainforest and limestone pillars that look like abandoned pieces of sculpture.

The Great Ocean’s real value is not in its gravity-defying engineering, but the way it transports you into one of Australia’s most intoxicating landscape – a combination of wild surf beaches, dense eucalypt forest and emerald green farmland.

Because of its geographical isolation this part of Victoria has been spared the ravages of industrialisation. But perhaps the road’s greatest trick has been to transform one of Australia’s most neglected regions into a hub for high-quality produce, premium wines, craft beer and artisan spirits. A new wave of young chefs is now serving up everything from Mexican street food to Spanish tapas and Greek mezze. Coffee roasters and gelati makers seem to be popping everywhere.

Gentrification may have softened some its hard edges, but the Great Ocean Road’s special brand of wilderness, rural resilience and casual surf chic seems to have an unstoppable momentum of its own.

Completed in 1932 The Great Ocean Road originally ran for 240kms between Torquay and Allansford, but the term is loosely defined. In reality, many travellers begin their coastal adventure in Melbourne and turn off the engine in Port Fairy (a distance of 664kms). This far more elaborate touring route takes in Geelong, Anglesea, Lorne, Cape Otway, Port Campbell, Warrnambool and, of course, the 12 Apostles. From Port Fairy travellers can drive north-west towards Adelaide or take the inland route back to Melbourne.

Synonymous with surfing and surf fashion (it is the birthplace of both Rip Curl and Quicksilver), the laid-back town of Torquay marks the official start of the Great Ocean Road. Board riders must visit the Australian National Surfing Museum, but only experienced surfers should try their luck at nearby Bells Beach, Australia’s most famous surf break. Dedicated landlubbers will enjoy Torquay’s vibrant food scene and its exciting roster of micro-breweries, artisan distilleries and bespoke wineries, including Bells Beach Brewing and award-winning Bellbrae Estate. 

Well-heeled Melburnians have been holidaying at this pretty little town for over a century, drawn here by the protected waters of Loutit Bay and its family-friendly vibe. Book a lesson with Go Ride A Wave surf school, take a dip in the historic Lorne Sea Baths or relax with a rejuvenating massage at Saltair Day Spa. Lorne is also a useful base for exploring the Great Otway National Park, with its towering eucalypt forests, thundering waterfalls and tranquil lakes.  

No-one needs to go hungry in Apollo Bay, a honeypot packed with excellent cafes, bars and restaurants. This modest settlement has a thriving fishing industry, with a plentiful supply of snapper, lobster, octopus and cuttlefish. Buy direct from the fleet at the Apollo Bay Fisherman’s Co-op. The town has its own craft brewhouse and a distillery producing handcrafted gins using local botanicals. Outdoor types can choose from a range of adventure sports to get the heart pumping, including kayaking, reef fishing and snorkelling.

Formed over 20 million years the starkly beautiful limestone stacks known as the 12 Apostles are a major drawcard for anyone travelling along the Great Ocean Road. Recent storms have reduced their number to seven, but the landmark continues to enthral visitors, especially in heavy seas. The formation was originally named Sow and Piglets, but later rebranded by tourism authorities. Reaching up to 45 metres the stacks are an impressive sight from the viewing areas but can also be experienced from the air by taking a scenic flight.

Warrnambool is one of Australia’s most colourful regional cities with a maritime history going back to the early nineteenth century. So many sailing ships foundered in this part of Victoria that it is now known as the Shipwreck Coast. This story is told at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village. Warrnambool is also celebrated for its southern right whales, which visit from June to October each year. Apart from shipwrecks and whales, Warrnambool also has some the most sheltered swimming spots along the southern coast.

Until recently travellers were faced with a dilemma: should I drive or walk the Great Ocean Road? A raft of new hiking options means that you can now do both. Parks Victoria provides an excellent online guide for those who want to tackle the 110km Great Ocean Walk independently, including a selection of short walks and day walks. Licensed operators, such as Auswalk and RAW Travel, offer fully escorted, multi-day walking trips. Auswalk’s four-day walk costs $A1995 (twin share), including accommodation, meals and transfers; self-guided walking options are available. Make sure you leave the tarmac to explore the Great Otway National Park, which offers pristine rainforest, challenging hikes and spectacular waterfalls.

Most journeys on the Great Ocean Road begin in Melbourne, the capital of Victoria, 100kms to the north. British Airways, Emirates, Qantas, Singapore Airlines and Etihad all operate direct flights from London Heathrow to Melbourne. Flying time from the UK is 23 hours. Tullamarine is around 20kms from Melbourne’s city centre, so it makes sense to pick up your rental vehicle from the airport and drive directly to Torquay, the official start of the Great Ocean Touring Route. If you have time, spend your first night in Geelong, a thriving regional city surrounded by surf beaches and boutique wineries. Those on a package tour will usually spend a couple of days in Melbourne before travelling south to join the Great Ocean Road.

Over the past decade the Great Ocean Road has become an international destination, attracting a constant stream of visitors around the year. Things are particularly hectic over the long summer school holidays (December to January) when thousands of Melburnians migrate to the coast. Accommodation in Torquay, Lorne and Apollo Bay is almost impossible to find at this time. Things are equally busy during the Labour Day long weekend (early March) and Easter period. Temperatures in southern Victoria are mild by Australian standards with a summer average of 25ºC, but the sea is distinctly chilly throughout the year. These weather conditions are ideal for keen hikers, but a bit more challenging if you want to swim or surf.

The Australian winter (June to August) is the quietest time to visit the Great Ocean Drive, but many regional operators close during this period, so finding a room or a decent coffee can be hard. If you plan to camp out in winter, take a good-quality tent. 

There is huge demand for accommodation in summer, so book well in advance. Online booking engines often have attractive hotel deals, but if you are looking for something a little quirkier, check out local listing agency Stayz, which has a huge range of farm cottages, holiday apartments and luxury beachfront houses to rent. Car rental prices fluctuate wildly during the year, so use comparison site VroomVroomVroom to find the best deal.

If you are planning a self-drive adventure expect to pay around £84 a day for a mid-size vehicle and £134 a day for a two-berth campervan. Accommodation options range from campsites to luxury resorts, but a good-quality motel room will cost around £100 a night. One of your biggest expenses will be eating out – you’ll pay around £28 for a modest two-course lunch. Booking an all-inclusive package, such as Intrepid Travel’s six-day Great Ocean Road & Grampians Adventure (from £1,310) allows you to keep a tighter rein on travelling expenses. Most tour companies will tailor their itineraries to suit your needs.

Victoria is the smallest mainland state but is packed with around 100 national parks and reserves. Parks Victoria runs over a dozen rustic campsites along the Great Ocean Road. Overnight tariffs start at A$14.20. Sites must be pre-booked and paid for online. A ballot system applies in peak periods.

After several hours behind the wheel it’s time to soar above the storm-ravaged coastline with 12 Apostles Helicopters, a specialist operator based at Princetown. Its signature one-hour 12 Apostles to Cape Otway scenic flight costs A$585 per person, including The Arch, London Bridge, Bay of Islands and Cape Otway Lighthouse.

Great Otway National Park is one of the jewels of the Great Ocean Road and home to one of Australia’s most elusive creatures, the platypus. Paddle with Otway Eco Tours across Lake Elizabeth for a rare chance to see platypus in the wild. Guided canoe tours cost A$95 (adults) and A$60 (child).

After driving the length of the Great Ocean Road, reward yourself with a spot of pampering at the Deep Blue Hotel and Hot Springs in Warrnambool. The foreshore property is equipped with a Hot Springs Sanctuary, Bath House and Day Spa, offering holistic massage, seaweed scrubs and geothermal mineral bathing.

Everyone is their own travel agent these days, but Australia is a long way from home and some people find it comforting to book a package – even if you just need help finding a campervan. These UK-based companies have a deep knowledge of Australia built up over several decades, so tap into their expertise.

Aimed firmly at the backpacker, Trailfinders’ Mighty Trip Down The Great Ocean Road 10-day package will get you from Melbourne to Adelaide in a leisurely manner, with seven days on The Great Ocean Road itself. The tariff includes the hire of a Mighty Camper. Trailfinders will also source competitive return airfares. Trailfinders offers A Mighty Trip Down The Great Ocean Road, including campervan hire and budget accommodation in Melbourne and Adelaide, costs £549 per person. 

If you are looking for some outdoor adventure, with a splash of Aboriginal culture and a taste of bush tucker, then Intrepid’s Great Ocean Road & Grampians Adventure package is ideal. The small group tour takes the traveller from Melbourne along The Great Ocean Road, heads inland to the Grampians and finishes across the border in Adelaide. Intrepid Travel offers a six-day Great Ocean Road & Grampians Adventure, including motel accommodation, tours and some meals, from £1,310 per person. 

Iconic is a big word, but Flight Centre can be proud of its 12-night trip around Victoria which includes return flights with Singapore Airlines and car hire. Given the high standard of accommodation this package represents great value, with the chance to add extra local experiences and hotel upgrades. Flight Centre offers the Iconic Victoria & Great Ocean Road package, including return flights from London, accommodation and car hire, from £2,455 per person. 

From the early days the Great Ocean Road has been pitched as one of the world’s great long-distance drives. How much it costs largely depends on what vehicle you hire and how many days you allocate for the trip. 

While most people will choose the self-drive option it is possible to join a coach trip along the Great Ocean Road from Melbourne. Sightseeing Tours Australia offers a guided two-day coach trip from $A299 for travellers aged 18-35. The package includes all park entrance fees, dormitory accommodation and pick-ups from either downtown Melbourne or St Kilda. 

The government-run V/Line company operates a daily bus service from Melbourne to Warrnambool stopping at Geelong, Torquay, Lorne, Apollo Bay, Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles. Fares are capped at A$9.20 per day, so if you spent four nights on the Great Ocean Road, the total transport cost would be A$36.80. From Warrnambool travellers could then hop on a V/Line train directly back to Melbourne. 

Although hiring your own campervan is considerably more expensive, fierce competition means that it is possible to pick up a great deal, especially during off-peak times. Jucy, Cheapa Campa, Apollo and Britz all offer fully equipped vans from as little as A$99 per day. There are plenty of camping sites and backpacker hostels along the route. For something even cheaper hire a station wagon from Travellers Autobarn for as little as A$73 per day. Vehicles come with camping gear and carry four adults.

Victoria is blessed with some of the country’s finest surf beaches, but the water here is notoriously chilly, even in summer. Unless you are surfing, it’s not worth investing in a full-body wetsuit. For ocean swimming RipCurl has a range of short-sleeve Spring Suits priced from £109. Down The Line Surf in Hayle, Cornwall, stocks O’Neill Thermo-X Hooded Vests for £55.

Victoria’s weather is milder than many parts of Australia, but the sun is still damaging. If you are spending any time outdoors wear a wide-brimmed hat. Marks & Spencer has packable fedora hats for £17.50 or sun-smart Panama hats priced at £55, while Cotswold Outdoor has a range of robust hats for men and women, starting at £36 for the White Rock Oasis Sun Hat.

A good-quality insect repellent is essential wherever you travel in Australia and Bushman Plus is one of the most powerful. The repellent offers up to eight hours of protection from sandflies, mosquitos, ticks and leeches. 90ml Bushman Ultra Insect Repellent Pump Spray from The Safari Store costs £6.

Ditch the khaki bloomers and denim cut-offs and embrace the world of board shorts. ‘Boardies’ come in a dazzling range of colours and designs, from the basic two-tone version to vivid flower patterns. Next has colourful options for women, including Roxy White Floral Endless Summer, from £35, and men’s Blue Hawaiian Printed Swim Shorts for £20.

• Do I need a visa? British tourists need to apply for eVisitor visa before they arrive in Australia. The visa is valid for upto three months.
• What is the currency, and should I take cash? The Australian dollar. Electronic point of sale payment (EFTPOS) is now standard around the country, but cash is still useful in rural areas. 
• Permits? You do not need a permit to stay in a camping ground run by Parks Victoria, but it is advisable to visit its website in advance and book your site. 
• What is the latest Foreign Office advice? The Foreign Office says that travellers should exercise care when travelling to remote areas of Australia. 
• How to contact the British Embassy: For urgent help contact the British Consulate General in Melbourne on +61 (0) 3 9652 1600. 
• Details of emergency services: Call 000 for police, fire and ambulance services.