By retracing an imaginary trip across the Mediterranean Sea – an inexhaustible source of inspiration layered with arts, traditions, and crafts – Bulgari’s latest High Jewellery and High-End Watches collection of over 400 creations, aptly named ‘Mediterranea’, is an expression of the audacious creativity and exceptional craftsmanship the Roman jeweller is so renowned for.
Choosing Venice – a cultural and artistic crossroads over the centuries – for the debut of its 2023 Mediterranea High Jewellery and High-End Watches collection was absolutely no coincidence for Bulgari. Being in the centre of the Mediterranean and the meeting point for various cultures including the Byzantine, Moorish, and Ottoman (as well as Sicily and Rome) who all traded with the Venetian empire, led to a unique Venetian architectural style, Venetian Gothic.
Venice brought together distant universes and inspirations, spanning from the secret gardens found on the Silk Road to the warm sands of the African desert. Indeed, the historic ‘City of Love’ provides an iconic backdrop that perfectly embodies the eclectic spirit of this spectacular new collection.
A star-studded and glamorous red-carpet gala dinner also brought together Bulgari Brand Ambassadors like Blackpink’s Lisa, Zendaya, Anne Hathaway and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, amongst others, all bedazzled and decked out in key pieces from Mediterranea. Yet, despite their star power, the unmistakable highlight remained the exceptional creations of the collection.
Mauro di Roberto, Chief of the Jewellery Division at Bulgari, explains to Prestige that, traditionally, Rome has always been the most important source of inspiration for the company.
“However, as a meeting point for Africa, Asia and Europe, the Mediterranean is very important to us, too – it’s a meeting point of different cultures. We like to think that it is well expressed through this new collection. As a source of inspiration, what we have learned is that creativity comes faster than we think because of the gems that we find and work with… you always find new ones, new shapes, new colours – and this is the real novelty. So, we contextualised some of these gems in terms of the Mediterranean this year to great effect. But I am convinced that, whatever the theme is next year, the result will be the same.”
He continues: “We have an ambition of high standards when it comes to the colour, the inclusions, the character and so on of the gemstones. It’s becoming increasingly difficult to find exceptional gems, as the market has become more and more aggressive (with competitors). The demand is so much bigger these days.” Continuing on the topic of inspiration, Mauro says it is a matter of constant evolution.
“What is important for us is that whatever creativity you see here, whoever has designed it, and whoever has given the brief, an intangible part is talking about where we come from, with references to the past. We are always inspired by what we have done so far, and that is a continuous evolution. You will always be able to identify different design codes, things that are unmistakably Bulgari. For me, personally, the 60s and 70s are the best eras from a creativity point of view, because Bulgari at the time was probably the only jeweller who was mixing and matching [coloured gemstones], in a world where a traditional approach was the norm. On this journey of evolution, we have always experimented with new gemstones, unusual colours, and colour combinations.
“From a technical point of view, I would say the versatility of the designs is very important too. With rare and unusual gemstones, the result of the product is very much directed by the gem. We recognise the extraordinary beauty of the gemstone, and then come up with different designs until we find a solution that ensures the stone is always the main protagonist.”
In the year that Bulgari is celebrating the 75th anniversary of the iconic Serpenti, it comes as no surprise that the Mediterranea collection features several new spectacular iterations of this creation. “Serpenti is one of those creations where we realised that creativity is infinite. We have come up with a collection this year with a totally different creative interpretation, compared to the past, and it’s amazing how complementary it is to the overall collection. It is never repetitive or redundant, and therein lies the real beauty,” he explains.
For the exhibition of the Mediterranea creations, Bulgari opted for the historical Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel. Built at the end of the 15th century by the Venetian Soranzo family, in the 17th century it was acquired by a Dutch family, named Van Axel, that further enriched the outstanding 3,800-square-metre building with frescos and bas-reliefs. In keeping with Venice’s antique tradition as a point of entry for Oriental carpets to be sold in the Western countries, the entrance of the palazzo is decorated with a variety of gold carpets.
Inside, to explore the brands unique creativity and outstanding craftsmanship, different spaces are created that share a rich and captivating aesthetic and also embody the distinctive ethos of the three worlds coexisting within the Mediterranea collection: ‘Southern Radiance’, ‘East Meets West’, and an engaging and hi-tech ‘Craftsmanship Room’.
On the first floor, the colourful and joyful ‘Southern Radiance’ creations, all evoking the warmth of the sun, the colours of the Mediterranean shorelines and the striking blue of the sea, are showcased in a space focused on a palette where ivory and gold are matched with fresh shades of blue sapphire. Here, a partnership with Venice’s most prestigious glassmaker, Venini, and its Artistic Director Marco Piva, led to the creation of a scenic modular glass sculpture inspired by the brand’s Tazebao chandelier.
On the same floor, for the display of the eclectic ‘East Meets West’ family of High Jewellery, Rubelli and Formafantasma,the research-based design studio, created a fascinating installation of floor-to-ceiling modular sculptures covered with precious fabrics inspired by the legend of the Pillars of Hercules. In Greek mythology, these indicated the limit of the known world; here, they are used as a metaphor for Bulgari’s desire to break new ground. The Serpenti creations are displayed in a warm, luxurious environment dominated by a sculpture crafted by Orsoni Venezia 1888, Venice’s historical furnace, with insertions of 24K gold leaf mosaics.
On the second floor, creating a connection between past, present and future, an emotional journey into Bulgari’s craftmanship offers the worldwide premiere of an engaging and hi-tech ‘Craftsmanship Room’. The discovery starts with three fascinating 3D navigable “windows” facing the Mediterranean Sea, digitally created by the Italian visual artist Giuseppe Lo Schiavo – each of them consisting of a digital artwork inspired by a jewellery piece from the new collection.
When it comes to highlights of Mediterranea, they are plentiful. A tribute to the lively beauty of the Mediterranean Sea, the Mediterranean Muse necklace seduces with stunning gems in a charming range of blue tones, as well as a magnetic and voluptuous torchon body crafted from platinum and diamonds. While a central 15.13-carat cushion sapphire steals the limelight with its deep blue tone, a dynamic drop layout of aquamarines and diamonds evokes the rhythmic movement of sea waves – combining different volumes and shapes in a harmonious balance.
Like in Southern Italy’s Apulia region where white chalky Baroque villages overlook the sea with peaceful serenity, in the Southern Sapphire platinum necklace a lace-like intricate but effortless and soft layout of shimmering diamonds and transparent sapphires unfolds around an incredible 66.88-carat Ceylon sapphire evoking the blue depth of the Mediterranean Sea. Requiring 1,650 hours to be completed, this vibrant yet timeless creation exudes a captivating sense of balanced elegance and exquisite perfection.
Reminiscent of Roman timeless architecture, the Roman Esedra sautoir boasts a magnetic 68.88-carat emerald set in a hexagonal pendant. A tribute to an iconic Bulgari piece dating back to the 1970s, this necklace features a harmonious combination of gems, spanning from emeralds to amethysts and turquoises. The unique colour matching, that also returns in the yellow gold chain, reflects Bulgari’s signature exuberance rooted in Mediterranean flamboyance.
The sense of eternal beauty that has always defined the city of Rome also permeates the Muse of Rome necklace. A stunning 218.53-carat emerald challenged Bulgari Jewellry Creative Director Lucia Silvestri to develop a unique design balancing with airy lightness the weight of the gemstone and at the same time exalting its extraordinary appeal. With the support of two master artisans, she has managed to create a unique structure that enhances the detachable central pendant with elegance and sophistication. Adding extra modernity to the piece, an emerald and South Sea pearl sautoir was also designed, adding versatility to a creation that can be worn in multiple ways.
The exquisite reliefs that grace the Ara Pacis, located a short distance from Bulgari’s Roman headquarters, inspired the unique layout of the Acanthus Emerald necklace. To create an incredibly balanced layout, seven superior emeralds all showing the same outstanding colour and transparency and totaling 33.59 carats were cut into drops and set among 60 buff-top emeralds, mounted with 68 step-cut and 58 brilliant-cut and pavé-set diamonds. The result is a masterpiece injected with timeless beauty and phenomenal craftsmanship.
The warm dunes of deserts inspired the silhouette of the Oriental Fantasy necklace, where the fascinating colours of a layout of nine outstanding mandarin garnets – counting over 90 carats – paired with vibrant citrines, immediately evoke the earthy hues of Northern African spice markets. At the same time, a delicate combination of mother of pearl and black onyx draws geometrical motifs referencing the henna tattoos of Oriental women. With its unique balance, this sumptuous creation steals the limelight with outstanding grace and delicacy.
A 13.34-carat antiquecushion emerald from Colombia isthe ultimate protagonist of the Oriental Buds pink gold necklace. Around the exceptional gem, a lush exotic garden unfolds with a geometric vibe inspired by Byzantine architecture. Diamond pavé settings are combined with pink tourmaline, sapphire and emerald beads creating Indian Mughal-like motifs that add voluptuousness to this artwork of creativity and craftsmanship that required 2,300 hours to be completed. The necklace comes with a matching secret watch, dominated by a 5.65-carat Colombian cushion-cut emerald nested in a pavé-diamond setting of Indian Mughal-inspired motifs.
In the Mediterranean Sapphire Serpenti necklace, nine sapphires from Sri Lanka (totalling 40.81carats) evoking a snake’s scales are set in a precise and sinuous platinum and pavé diamond body construction, culminating in a dramatic pendant tassel including 80 oval-shaped sapphire beads. Injected with dynamism, this sumptuous creation combines the magnetism of the snake silhouette with references to the Mediterranean Sea’s unique shades of blue.
Two of Bulgari’s most signature elements, the shape of the snake and the use of stunning emeralds, meet in the incredible Baroque Serpenti necklace. Seven voluptuous and sensual emerald drops, all with irregular shapes, were carefully set to create a harmonious balance exalting the gems’ transparency. They beautifully enrich a diamond and emerald body where two snakes fuse into one in a celebration of strength and empowerment.
Creativity and craftsmanship, past and future, heritage and innovation… Mediterranea embodies Bulgari’s sophisticated and multifaceted spirit, and a universal language of beauty.