distinctive type of brandy that’s made from grapes, Armagnac – produced in the Gascony region south-west of Bordeaux in France – is a sweet spirit that makes for a lip-smacking digestif.
Think of it as a rustic rendition of brandy – fuller-bodied when compared to Cognac, perhaps – and is distilled just the once and often aged for many years (decades, even) in oak barrels to enrich its palate and enliven its nose.
There are approximately four grape varieties used to make the sweet, sweet nectar – Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Bacco 22A and Colombard – the first of which is one of the most common in the world and accounts for around a third of the white wine produced in Italy.
Although it’s Cognac’s less famous, less showy cousin, Armagnac is believed to be the oldest brandy in France, the first written record citing 1411 – which would mean it’s at least 200 years older than its blingy relative.
Since the very beginning, it’s largely been produced by small-scale, family-run makers, their continued pride and passion making for some truly interesting expressions on the market today. Like many underdog spirits – from rye to mezcal – Armagnac has rocketed in popularity in recent years as a younger demographic of drinkers finally discovers its smoky appeal, complexity and variation, from vintage to vintage.
Whether enjoyed straight-up, as an accompaniment to food or mixed into a cocktail, it can hold its own by itself while complementing other flavours.
Dawn Davies MW, head of buying at The Whisky Exchange, says: “Armagnac is definitely back! We’ve seen a rise in popularity this year with people showing more interest in the category as evidenced by a 17 per cent increase in sales.
“There are producers such as Laballe, which is making its Armagnacs visually more appealing to a younger consumer, while customers are seeing the amazing value that can be had with vintage Armagnacs, especially at a time when whisky prices – particularly on aged stock – are going through the ceiling.
“Traditionally, Armagnac has struggled, as unlike Cognac, they do not have the big market leaders like the Hennessys and Martells of this world. They have much smaller houses and less power, but with people being more interested in smaller brands and more niche products – partially, thanks to gin – they have a huge opportunity.”
Here, we round-up the best Armagnacs to stock your bar with, ensuring there’s always something that hits the spot after dinner is done.
Bas Armagnac Darroze Les Grands Assemblages 12 Year Old
This bottle comes with serious bragging rights: the brand is owned by Marc Darroze, brother of Helen Darroze, the three Michelin-starred chef at The Connaught.
For generations, the family has been scouring Gascony in search of the finest Armagnacs in the region, and as a result thousands of centuries-old treasures are stocked at the Darroze household (we, for one, would like to be a guest).
This, the 12 Year Old, is part of Marc’s Les Grands Assemblages range – a curation of age-defined blends that range from eight to 60 – and is suitably boisterous with hints of liquorice and cinnamon on the nose and floral notes, coffee and burnt sugar on the palate. The family can do no wrong.
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Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac VS
With Alexander Stein, founder of German gin Monkey 47, at the helm, you just know this Armagnac is going to be a cut-above, particularly as he’s been newly-appointed to revitalise the brand and restore it to its former glory.
His mantra? “Armagnac is just like rock ‘n’ roll: unadjusted, passionate and soulful.” Accompanied by a VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) and an XO (Extra Old), the fresh and vibrant VS (Very Special) certainly lives up to its premise, aged for two years to deliver aromas of apple and caramel with smooth flavours of fruit and black pepper. Delish.
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Domaine D’Esperance 17 Year Old Petit Lot Armagnac Version Francaise
Small-batch like the best of ‘em, Domaine D’Esperance 17 Year Old Petit Lot Armagnac Version Francaise is aged for just under 20 years, made from a blend of Folle Blanche, Baco 22A and Ugni Blanc grapes. As you might expect, it’s bold and rich on the nose with aromas of toffee, peach and honeysuckle, teamed with a palate of curry, honey and chocolate. Lively and well-balanced.
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Cles Des Ducs VSOP Armagnac
Aromas of fresh fruit, spices and oak wood combine in a VSOP to recreate all the richness and complexity found in this delightful Armagnac. It’s distilled more slowly than most to develop a fruitier, more powerful and tastier drink. Despite all that, it’s surprisingly easy to drink, light amber in colour, soft on the nose and oaky in the mouth.
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Delord 25 Year Old Bas-Armagnac
An Armagnac matured in oak barrels for 25 years and made from Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Bacco 22A and Folle Blanche grapes. Caramel, cocoa butter and vanilla make this a sweet sip indeed, alongside distinctive woody tannins, with the bottle itself presented in a beautiful wooden box. Great for a gift.
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Castarede XO 20 Year Old Bas Armagnac
You certainly get a lot of bang for your buck in Castarede XO 20 Year Old Bas Armagnac, which has been allowed to mellow with age. Suitably complex and characterful, a swirl around the glass treats you to aromas of chestnut, fried fruit and cigars, while a glug reveals a soft palate of ginger, Christmas and nuts. Simply divine.
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Domaine Tariquet Armagnac XO
Sometimes, youth has its advantages, and case in point is Domaine Tariquet Armagnac XO, distilled from Ugni Blanc and Bacco 22A grapes and aged for just 15 years. Supple and complex, it combines finesse and strength, packed with flavour of wood and fruit and aromas of freshly-baked bread.
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Château de Lacquy 2001
Its price may be punchy, but this vintage Armagnac – limited to just 492 bottles – is proof that you really do get what you pay for. Spicy with notes of straw, figs orange blossom and figs, it’s both elegant and complex. Sure to slip down a treat when you retire to the billiard room after supper.
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Baron de Sainte Fauste 10 YO Bas Armagnac
Soft and round with dried fruit and sweet nut flavours, this Armagnac delivers excellent value for money, while packaged up in a traditional bottle with curves in all the right places. Inhale those toffee, baked pear and almond aromas before drinking up that sweet, spicy liquid.
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Baron de Sigognac 20 Ans Bas Armagnac Brandy
Pure joy can be poured from this bottle, a velvety Armaganc aged in oak for 20 years to create vanilla and brioche on the nose and vanilla, prunes and violets on the palate. It’s quite low in strength, too, meaning there’s never been a better excuse to have another glass.
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Prince de Conde Armagnac Basquise Brandy
With a bottle that stands out on the shelves, Prince de Conde Armaganc Basquise Brandy is intense and complex with flavours of fruit and wood that linger on the tongue. A belter of a bottle – especially at this price point.
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